How to Hit a Draw for Maximum Length off the Tee…
Ok, welcome back!
The 2nd most common response on the surveys was… more distance.
And as golfers ourselves we can relate!
There is nothing quite like the feeling of smacking a great drive and watching it soar high in the air as it splits the fairway…
Cutting the corner on that big dog leg…
Or having a chance at hitting that long par 4 or even par 5 in two.
And let’s not forget the pats on the back from the rest of your foursome.
Well when it comes to hitting monster drives Tom has developed a 5-step system…
It’s a system that anyone can follow – no matter their age, current playing level, or body type – to get the most yards out of their swing.
Step 1 is all about controlling your curvature, and getting rid of a slice…
Take a look at the sneak preview below:
Thanks for watching!
Today’s lesson was a preview from a much larger bonus module called “Monster Drives.”
Now the full “Monster Drives” module goes into far, far more detail on Tom’s 5-Step process… and even includes 2 additional videos where Tom works with ordinary golfers… just like you… to straighten their slice and add 10 or more yards in the process. (In fact one student nearly hits someone at the far end of the range!)
We’ll be sending you all of the information on exactly how you can get FREE access to the Monster Drives bonus module in the next couple of days!
Thanks. Off out to play now and give it a try
I have heard this all before so Please EXPLAINE HOW A GOLF BALL KNOW IM RIGHTY HITTING A DRAW AND NOT A LEFTY HITTING A FADE?????
Hi Mike, great question! The conditions that occur at impact when a righty hits a draw are actually quite different than when a lefty hits a fade!
As just one example, consider that when the club face is closed relative to the club path (conditions for the righty to hit a draw), the effective loft of the club decreases. On the other hand, when the club face is open relative to the path (a lefty hitting a fade), the effective loft of the club increases – very much like what happens when you open up your sand wedge to hit a flop shot.
Another important thing to consider is that due to compression, the ball actually stays in contact with the face of your driver for the first couple inches of its flight. We like to simplify by thinking about the impact conditions as a snap shot in time, but in reality both the club face angle and path are continuously shifting even WHILE the ball is in contact with the face. Take a SUPER slow motion swing and observe where your club face is pointing and how it changes as your club moves through impact… you should notice that regardless of whether your club face is open, closed, or square – it is in the PROCESS of closing as you move forward in your swing. Similarly, your swing path is not in fact a straight line but a slight and continuous curve. And here the action of a righty hitting a draw and a lefty hitting a fade are very different.
Finally, the body mechanics that produce an in-to-out swing path on the righty tend to be more powerful than the body mechanics that produce the out-to-in swing path on the lefty.
thank you looks good will try it out next time on range
Thanks for the help on the grip position. That should get rid of the duck hook.
Good sound advice in a nutshell
Started to use these tips and after many years I am now drawing the ball and getting good distance.It will take me a few more games as I did tend to go back to my old habit of slicing.My usual 4 ball friends were very impressed with my T shots and the way I used the draw.(Cape Town South Africa)
Thanks, can’t wait to get on the range and try this out.
I could listen to Tom all day as he communicates what I call “user friendly”. I also like the West and it appears that Tom is perhaps in AZ or further West in his videos.
Tried the inside out method work great when ex properly work in progress
very excited will be able to lower H/cap